Tokyo and Yokohama Regional Farmers Markets: Saturday, August 19 and Sunday, August 20

Yummy fresh eggs at the Ark Hills Marche.

Things return to normal this week with a number of markets coming back into full swing after the Obon holidays. It is very possible that some vendors will still be away, but don't despair! They will be back after their much-needed holiday and refreshing visit with their ancestors. So, pack up your bags and head on out to see what great treats await!

Kichijoji Harmonica Yokocho Asaichi
Sunday, August 20
Early birds on Tokyo's west side should count themselves lucky to find this little market in the warren of shops just north of the station. While fruits and veg are a bit lacking, the market is big on craftsmen and women doing interesting work, excellent baked goods, miso, rice, and other tasty treats. It's worth noting that a number of places offer breakfast deals in the market!
Look for my review in Outdoor Japan's Spring Traveler!
7am - 10am

Koenji Farmers Market
Saturday, August 19
Spotted a handful of years ago while riding the Chuo Line, this little market is still going strong. A circle of red awnings in front of the Za-Koenji Public Theatre marks the spot where friendly folks with good food and interesting stories await.
11am - 6pm
Map

Nippori Farmers Market
Saturday, August 19 and Sunday, August 20
This charming market in the heart of old Tokyo abounds with a sense of community and friendliness as well as good food. Small but lively, particularly on Saturday, it features a monthly geographical theme although regular vendors include Tohoku growers and some of the best steamed manju in the world.
No map, but just head out the East Exit and look for the green awnings
10am to 5pm

Yokohama Kitanaka Marche
Saturday, August 19 and Sunday, August 20
One of the best markets going in the Yokohama area, and it's perhaps no coincidence that they are only moments away from Baird Beer's Bashamichi Taproom. Started by the same folks who created the Market of the Sun, the Kitanaka Marche to be growing steadily with tasty offerings of fresh seasonal veg, fruit, baked goods and preserves. Read my other review over at Outdoor Japan's Traveler Magazine for the full scoop.
10am to 4pm
Bashamichi Station, Exit 2*
Note that the market has moved, so come out of the station, turn right, and take the next right turn. Keep walking past the construction site and keep an eye out for the white tents running along next to the river.

Oiso Farmers Market
Sunday, August 20
This little gem of a community shindig is one of the best things going outside of the Earth Day Market. Started a handful of years ago, it blossomed into a full-on monthly festival that just happens to feature Shonan area produce in its fresh, seasonal form as well as pickled, dried, and prepared-hot-in-a-bowl varieties. In summer, it transforms into a night market, while year-round a much smaller version takes place every Saturday. Lee's Bread alone is worth the journey. Read my full review at Outdoor Japan's Traveler Magazine.
5pm to 9pm
Oiso Port Building

Kamakura Farmers Market
Every day*
This market is an absolute treasure of a small local affair featuring Kamakura heirloom fruits and vegetables raised in or nearby another one of Japan's former capitals. Head in early to get the best selection and pick up a loaf of Paradise Alley's charcoal-infused bread while you're there. They also make an excellent cup of coffee.
*Be careful of the Obon season this month. Nothing is noted on their website, but it could be sporadic this month.
7am until sold out
Map

Ebisu Market
Every Sunday*
A small handful of years ago, the Ebisu Market became a weekly Sunday event. Part of the original Marche Japon movement, this market carries on with a nice selection of regional farmers, seasonal veg, baked goods, and the addition of arts and crafts. It does bill itself as all organic, and there are some; however, I recommend asking vendors to be sure. I also recommend a trip to Afuri Ramen to fortify yourself with some of the best yuzu tsukemen in town.
*Be careful of the Obon season this month. Nothing is noted on their website, but it could be sporadic.
11am to 5pm
Map

UN University Market
Every Saturday and Sunday
A massive weekend affair that started out as the flagship market for Marche Japon busted out on its own a few years back. Now one of the most happening places on the weekend, the market features a variety of fruits and vegetables and prepared products from all over Japan. Winter vegetables can be found here, but produce offerings do vary in amount by season. There is a most excellent selection of food trucks whipping up everything from salad to zingy curry to roast chicken and falafel! Oh, and don't forget the craft beer truck, too!
10am to 4pm
Map

Hills Marche Farmers Market
Every Tuesday and Saturday*
The Ark Hills Marche in Roppongi is perhaps one of the best things going in this part of Tokyo. Originally created to serve residents of the nearby high-rise, it is a bountiful and booming event. Don't miss the chance to meet a grower from Tokyo's very own Kokobunji, take in a little music, and sample a variety of other seasonal delights.
*Note that the first weekend of August the market will be closed.
Saturday, 10am to 4pm
Tuesday, 11am to 7pm
Map

Yurakucho Farmers Market
Every Saturday and Sunday
Smaller than the UNU Market, the Yurakucho Market takes its cue from the antenna shops located nearby and features a particular region of Japan each week along with an excellent selection of seasonal fruit and vegetables. Growers from nearby Chiba, Kamakura, and Saitama do come weekly, though, with some excellent treats.
11am to 5pm
Directions: Turn left out of Yurakucho Station and cross the courtyard toward Tokyo Kouku Keitan. Look for the fun under the overhang!

Know of a market? Give me a shout, and I'll add it to the list!

Thursday Snapshot: Fresh Honeycomb

Maroniya's beautiful and delicious honeycomb.

There are many wonderful things to be found at the Earthday Market in Tokyo, and I can always count on finding them at Maroniya's stall. She is one of the first farmers I met at this market, and her patience over the years as my Japanese improved has been an inspiration. Her plum jam is the best thing in the world, and her honey is utterly brilliant. Every month, I am grateful to find her cheerful presence, good conversation, and her wonderful treats at the market. I learn something new every time.

In June, Maroniya offered her homemade salve. Combining her beeswax with a bit of olive oil, she made one of the best lip balms and hand salves I've ever used. (Well, it runs a close second to Nakee Natural, at least.)

"One second," she said, and crouched down to look under the table. After rummaging a bit, she pulled out a plastic bag with honeycomb in it. "Here, try this. It makes a nice gum, and you can eat the comb if you want."

"Wow," I said, slightly dumbfounded. "Really? I can just chew it?"

"Yes. It's lovely and sweet."

I took her word for it and added it to the top of a bag already full of goodness from her and other vendors. Maroniya has never steered me wrong, and surely today would not be the first time. She cares for her hives tenderly, and I know that recently she lost a large number of bees. Whether it was a cold snap or disease, she didn't want to say, but she was devastated. The hives are a love of hers, and she loves telling how the bees move about with the seasons. I've tasted honey flavored by visits to clover, nira and other members of the allium family, mikan blossoms, and more. Every time it was amazing, and so why not this time, too?

I nibbled on bits and pieces over the next week or so, although I did get a surprise at one point to find a wee larvae peering out me. (I've left it in place, figuring it needs the honey more than I.) It was delicious, although I never managed to swallow the wax. I simply added it to the compost when the time came.

Who know what treasures I will find in September?

Tokyo and Yokohama Regional Markets: Saturday, August 12 and Sunday, August 13

The ever-charming and wonderful Kyoko Tanno of Tanno Nouen at the Ark Hills Marche. 

Markets are a bit scant this month, but don't let that hold you back! Venture out to see what glorious treasures may be found. Summer vegetables will be at their peak, and the farmers at their tables will be glad to help you sort out your weekly menu. These chilled summer soups or this all time favorite - tomatoes and green beans - are just a few recipes I recommend. That said, if you've got a favorite you'd like to share, please let me know! Send it along with a photo or two, and I'll post it here. Good eating should be no secret, I say.

Kamakura Farmers Market
Every day*
This market is an absolute treasure of a small local affair featuring Kamakura heirloom fruits and vegetables raised in or nearby another one of Japan's former capitals. Head in early to get the best selection and pick up a loaf of Paradise Alley's charcoal-infused bread while you're there. They also make an excellent cup of coffee.
*Be careful of the Obon season this month. Nothing is noted on their website, but it could be sporadic this month.
7am until sold out
Map

Ebisu Market
Every Sunday*
A small handful of years ago, the Ebisu Market became a weekly Sunday event. Part of the original Marche Japon movement, this market carries on with a nice selection of regional farmers, seasonal veg, baked goods, and the addition of arts and crafts. It does bill itself as all organic, and there are some; however, I recommend asking vendors to be sure. I also recommend a trip to Afuri Ramen to fortify yourself with some of the best yuzu tsukemen in town.
*Be careful of the Obon season this month. Nothing is noted on their website, but it could be sporadic.
11am to 5pm
Map

UN University Market
Every Saturday and Sunday
A massive weekend affair that started out as the flagship market for Marche Japon busted out on its own a few years back. Now one of the most happening places on the weekend, the market features a variety of fruits and vegetables and prepared products from all over Japan. Winter vegetables can be found here, but produce offerings do vary in amount by season. There is a most excellent selection of food trucks whipping up everything from salad to zingy curry to roast chicken and falafel! Oh, and don't forget the craft beer truck, too!
10am to 4pm
Map

Hills Marche Farmers Market
Every Tuesday and Saturday*
The Ark Hills Marche in Roppongi is perhaps one of the best things going in this part of Tokyo. Originally created to serve residents of the nearby high-rise, it is a bountiful and booming event. Don't miss the chance to meet a grower from Tokyo's very own Kokobunji, take in a little music, and sample a variety of other seasonal delights.
Saturday, 10am to 4pm
*Tuesday, 11am to 7pm (An exciting new addition!)
Map

Yurakucho Farmers Market
Every Saturday and Sunday
Smaller than the UNU Market, the Yurakucho Market takes its cue from the antenna shops located nearby and features a particular region of Japan each week along with an excellent selection of seasonal fruit and vegetables. Growers from nearby Chiba, Kamakura, and Saitama do come weekly, though, with some excellent treats.
11am to 5pm
Directions: Turn left out of Yurakucho Station and cross the courtyard toward Tokyo Kouku Keitan. Look for the fun under the overhang!

Know of a market? Give me a shout, and I'll add it to the list!

Thursday Snapshot: Celebrating Obon

An Obon tradition.

A few years ago we took a bicycle trip around Fukushima Prefecture and stopped in to visit a farmer friend there. She and her family graciously invited us to stay with them during the Obon season, and we enjoyed helping on the farm and getting to know them. It remains one of my fondest memories.

What was also very special was that she invited us to participate in a small ritual associated with the holiday. The Obon holiday marks a time when the spirits of the ancestors return to visit their family for three days. It is a very special time, and one of the few times of the year where people get a handful of days off from work in a row. Most people return to their ancestral homelands, and the trains, highways, and buses leaving from Tokyo are as full, I imagine, as the universe is of people streaming back to where they originally come from.

After chores and before dinner one night, we walked with our friend to the family cemetery at dusk to welcome the ancestors home.  She lit the candles inside the lanterns we held in front of us on small sticks, their paper shells glowing pink and blue and white, the irises painted on the outside glowing brightly. We swung them in a circular motion over the gravestones of her ancestors three times and said "Namu amida Dabutsu" ("I take refuge in Amida Buddha" is a rough translation.) with each swing.

We repeated this process at three different graves, and each time she explained to us who the person was, how long they lived, and often what we had seen on her farm that they had built or used. She also explained that one day her name would also be written on one of these stones when she died. It was, I thought, a beautiful way to remember the people who had come before, but also to remember who you were.

Pate Moi: A Delicious Review

Pate Moi ready for action.

Very occasionally I am approached to do a product review. Some, like Modern Farmer, contact me to find out what farm tool I love and ask me to review it as they did with the Travoy Bike Trailer by Burley. More often than not, it is a book I am offered to review, which I gladly do as it helps me keep myself up to date with new ideas and the people concocting them.

Pate Moi, though, was a different story. A popular item created by Flip Dunning and sold in London's Borough Market, Andrew Williams is here on the ground in Japan attempting to bring it to consumers hungry for something new and delicious.  He and his small cohort have been working hard to spread the news about their mushroom pate, and so he reached out to me to see if I might be interested. As I love to eat and have a special fondness for mushrooms, it seemed there was no choice but to say yes.

I'm salivating just looking at this.

I should begin by saying that I do love regular pate despite negative feelings toward liver otherwise. The rich sharp flavor is a welcome one for me, reminiscent of childhood and Wisconsin relatives who spoke with a distinct German accent. Glasses of cold beer and plain crackers with liverwurst and cheese were the appetizer of choice in those days, and even now when I return home for a visit my mother has liverwurst waiting.

I also love mushrooms. I won't digress for too long, but coming to Japan, a land of myriad mushrooms in all shapes and varieties, with multiple uses and methods of growing and preparing, has been a boon for me personally. I'm also currently reading Michael Phillips' latest, Mycorrhizal Planet: How Symbiotic Fungi Work with Roots to Support Plant Health and Build Soil Fertility for review, so perhaps the mushroom pump was extra primed.

Pate Moi's mushroom pate is made from a few simple ingredients: brown cap mushrooms, butter, and yogurt. The exact amounts, of course, are a trade secret, although Andrew did say "Butter, lots of butter," as he looked thoughtfully at the containers on the table in front of us. However, it really doesn't matter. The pate is excellent.

It also paired divinely with asazuke.

The smooth, rich flavor is exactly what one would hope for, and it paired well with everything from the crusty bread Williams thoughtfully brought along to our meeting, to the fresh, tomatoes and basil from my garden. It also did well with the spoon my husband pulled out to eat it by itself. It also made a nice thing to toss with our daily dose of noodles.

The pate is a nice alternative for those who like the idea of pate but not the ingredients. Liver or other organ meats are often distasteful to the modern palate, and Pate Moi's product is a nice alternative. One could call it a spread, but that does an injustice to the spirit in which it was created. Certainly, it is spreadable, but it's rich flavors are a delight that even now, long after every smidgeon of it has disappeared from container and kitchen, that makes my mouth water.

Do I recommend it? Wholeheartedly.

Where can it be found? Check their Facebook page to find out or chat with Andrew to arrange shipment. You won't be sorry.

August Tokyo and Yokohama Regional Farmers Markets

Chef Amya a.k.a. The Pie Queen at the Ark Hills Marche with her killer pies.

The heat seems to come and go, but thankfully, the markets and the farmers remain steady for the most part. August marks the time of Obon, when people return to family lands to welcome home the spirits of their ancestors back for their annual visit. This can mean that some farmers and markets will not be there when you might hope they are. I've noted on the schedule wherever possible that this may be the case, but be prepared. My suggestion might be to whip up a favorite recipe from your own family and welcome them to your kitchen this month. I'm sure they would be glad.

Greenmarket Sumida
*No Market Until September!* (Disappointing, but true.)
Just over the bridge from Senso-ji is the newest market in the heart of the city. A collaborative effort between the local government and the same folks who manage Market of the Sun and Yokohama's Kitanaka Marche, Greenmarket Sumida aims to fill the supermarket gap in this old neighborhood. An excellent selection of food trucks nourish weary shoppers while the Beer Truck is often on hand to slake their thirst.
10am to 4pm
Asakusa Station
Exit the station and cross the river towards the Asahi Building. Turn left and follow the path to the pocket park on the right.

Market of the Sun

*No market in August*
One of Tokyo's newer markets, Market of the Sun (a.k.a. Taiyo Marche), professes to be one of the largest. A short walk from Tsukiji Market and its wonderful surrounds, this market is worth a visit for its lovely selection of foodly and crafty items that rivals the goodies found at the UNU Market.

10am to 4pm

Step out of Kachidoke Station at Exits A4a or A4b and look for the tents.

Earth Day Market
*No market in August.*
I could wax on forever about how great this market is and how important it is for the future of Japanese farming and global food security. However, I'll just insist that folks go and see for themselves what great things the market and these innovative growers are doing. Come find some good food and fun!
10am to 4pm, Rain or shine
Map

Kichijoji Harmonica Yokocho Asaichi
Sunday, August 20
Early birds on Tokyo's west side should count themselves lucky to find this little market in the warren of shops just north of the station. While fruits and veg are a bit lacking, the market is big on craftsmen and women doing interesting work, excellent baked goods, miso, rice, and other tasty treats. It's worth noting that a number of places offer breakfast deals in the market!
Look for my review in Outdoor Japan's Spring Traveler!
7am - 10am

Koenji Farmers Market
Saturday, August 19
Spotted a handful of years ago while riding the Chuo Line, this little market is still going strong. A circle of red awnings in front of the Za-Koenji Public Theatre marks the spot where friendly folks with good food and interesting stories await.
11am - 6pm
Map

Nippori Farmers Market
Saturday, August 19 and Sunday, August 20
This charming market in the heart of old Tokyo abounds with a sense of community and friendliness as well as good food. Small but lively, particularly on Saturday, it features a monthly geographical theme although regular vendors include Tohoku growers and some of the best steamed manju in the world.
No map, but just head out the East Exit and look for the green awnings
10am to 5pm

Yokohama Kitanaka Marche
Saturday, August 19 and Sunday, August 20
One of the best markets going in the Yokohama area, and it's perhaps no coincidence that they are only moments away from Baird Beer's Bashamichi Taproom. Started by the same folks who created the Market of the Sun, the Kitanaka Marche to be growing steadily with tasty offerings of fresh seasonal veg, fruit, baked goods and preserves. Read my other review over at Outdoor Japan's Traveler Magazine for the full scoop.
10am to 4pm
Bashamichi Station, Exit 2*
Note that the market has moved, so come out of the station, turn right, and take the next right turn. Keep walking past the construction site and keep an eye out for the white tents running along next to the river.

Oiso Farmers Market
Sunday, August 20
This little gem of a community shindig is one of the best things going outside of the Earth Day Market. Started a handful of years ago, it blossomed into a full-on monthly festival that just happens to feature Shonan area produce in its fresh, seasonal form as well as pickled, dried, and prepared-hot-in-a-bowl varieties. In summer, it transforms into a night market, while year-round a much smaller version takes place every Saturday. Lee's Bread alone is worth the journey. Read my full review at Outdoor Japan's Traveler Magazine.
5pm to 9pm
Oiso Port Building

Kamome Marche
Saturday, August 26
Set on the upper level of the Yokohama Bay Quarter, this little market offers nice variety given its size. Vendors from Yamanashi, Yokohama, and other parts of Kanagawa brave the steady ocean breeze and offer everything up from fruit to wine to fresh vegetables.
11am - 5pm
Map

Kamakura Farmers Market
Every day*
This market is an absolute treasure of a small local affair featuring Kamakura heirloom fruits and vegetables raised in or nearby another one of Japan's former capitals. Head in early to get the best selection and pick up a loaf of Paradise Alley's charcoal-infused bread while you're there. They also make an excellent cup of coffee.
*Be careful of the Obon season this month. Nothing is noted on their website, but it could be sporadic this month.
7am until sold out
Map

Ebisu Market
Every Sunday*
A small handful of years ago, the Ebisu Market became a weekly Sunday event. Part of the original Marche Japon movement, this market carries on with a nice selection of regional farmers, seasonal veg, baked goods, and the addition of arts and crafts. It does bill itself as all organic, and there are some; however, I recommend asking vendors to be sure. I also recommend a trip to Afuri Ramen to fortify yourself with some of the best yuzu tsukemen in town.
*Be careful of the Obon season this month. Nothing is noted on their website, but it could be sporadic.
11am to 5pm
Map

UN University Market
Every Saturday and Sunday
A massive weekend affair that started out as the flagship market for Marche Japon busted out on its own a few years back. Now one of the most happening places on the weekend, the market features a variety of fruits and vegetables and prepared products from all over Japan. Winter vegetables can be found here, but produce offerings do vary in amount by season. There is a most excellent selection of food trucks whipping up everything from salad to zingy curry to roast chicken and falafel! Oh, and don't forget the craft beer truck, too!
10am to 4pm
Map

Hills Marche Farmers Market
Every Tuesday and Saturday*
The Ark Hills Marche in Roppongi is perhaps one of the best things going in this part of Tokyo. Originally created to serve residents of the nearby high-rise, it is a bountiful and booming event. Don't miss the chance to meet a grower from Tokyo's very own Kokobunji, take in a little music, and sample a variety of other seasonal delights.
*Note that the first weekend of August the market will be closed.
Saturday, 10am to 4pm
Tuesday, 11am to 7pm
Map

Yurakucho Farmers Market
Every Saturday and Sunday
Smaller than the UNU Market, the Yurakucho Market takes its cue from the antenna shops located nearby and features a particular region of Japan each week along with an excellent selection of seasonal fruit and vegetables. Growers from nearby Chiba, Kamakura, and Saitama do come weekly, though, with some excellent treats.
11am to 5pm
Directions: Turn left out of Yurakucho Station and cross the courtyard toward Tokyo Kouku Keitan. Look for the fun under the overhang!

Know of a market? Give me a shout, and I'll add it to the list!